![]() Maybe I will 'accidentally' price the K&D too high and have to keep it for a while lol.The presence of color flecks in the iris indicates a thinking-oriented, analytical person. I'm leaning towards keeping the Berg and selling the K&D simply for the convenience of not hunting for replacement stakes and the fact that if something happens to the Berg stakes, they are easily available to replace. ![]() I can't post a picture of it yet because if I open it further, I won't be able to return it. The tool isn't as pretty as the K&D, but it is certainly built like you would expect. And even though it's in a hard plastic case, it has machined aluminum blocks for stake and stump storage that are all labeled with part numbers and a picture of what should be there. The Berg set is very high quality feeling. Not terrible out of 120 stakes but I don't know how easy it will be to replace them. It has about 5 missing stakes that were filled in with repeats to make it look complete, and another 3 that are damaged. All the stumps are there and in good condition. When you're putting in 18 size watch back together the pallet fork has to be attached to the upper plate and held in place with a variety of methods and then the plates with the pallet fork comes down on the main plate with all the wheels there and then you getting the pallet fork in the problem is sometimes a be on top of the escape wheel and they end up putting pressure where you shouldn't and you break the jewel or Enoch the pallet jewels out of alignment you can basically end up with a lot of damage by not understanding how to put in 18 size watch back together again. But the usual reason that that jewel is broken is people don't know what they're doing with the putting in 18 size watch full plate back together again. You can try to find another 18 size plates with the correct jewel and hope that it actually fits because there's usually parts variations back then. Because nobody's going to see it on that side of the watch. But without knocking the edge off your screwed well I've seen people still try to do it and it's problematic.Īnother way to do this is if you had your jewel tools which you probably don't you just ream out the whole input in a modern jewel. In year laying spinach you bring the jewel up so it spins with the lap it sounds weirder than it really is and if you angle it just right you can just get the jewel the spin and knocked the corner off and it works really well it's action quite simple. Somewhere in the group I think I posted a drawing in images this you basically need a piece of metal with a pivot on the end you put the jewel on your pivot with a little but oil and you need a diamond lap which a lot of watchmakers will have for sharpening their gravers. Grinding the edge on the jewel is surprisingly easy to do but it would be nice if you to watchmakers lathe. That would be well outside my available tooling and skill set at this point. This is the train side, I think the jewel is set in a setting that has been pressed into the plate.Īnd from the dial side (not taken with magnification) the ring around the jewel slopes inward: And which direction would they push out - outward through the dial side or inward? ![]() I think Otto Frei may stock a plain jewel without setting that could be burnished in. If these are friction fit settings, is it possible to source replacements other than from a donor movement? Fabricating a setting on a lathe is out of the question for me right now. Unfortunately my broken jewel is on the mainplate, while the fullplate cover/bridge uses easy to remove screw settings instead. The watch runs well as long as I don't move it around too much). (It's also possible this task is outside my skill level and I should set it aside for now. I have a broken pallet pivot jewel I might take a stab at replacing, but I own no jeweling or burnishing tools and what I need to buy will depend on what setting I'm facing. Can someone help me understand which type of jewel setting I'm looking at in this Elgin 18s grade 146 mainplate? Reading the list of setting types over at Pocket Watch DB, I am unsure whether this is a burnished setting or a friction setting. ![]()
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